Microsoft word - phl09persequip.doc
From 2009 Philmont Guidebook to Adventure, Pages 16-17
YOUR PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
Be sure to label all of your clothing and equipment with your name and
, so you can readily identify what is yours
Personal and Miscellaneous
and so any of your belongings lost and found can be returned.
*matches and lighter in waterproof container (BB, A) .
*flashlight (small with extra batteries and bulb) .
YOUR PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
*lip balm (BB, A) (with SPF of 25) chapstick .
pack with padded hip belt (rental available) .
capacity: external frame–4000 cu in +/-
*6 to12 (gallon size) Ziploc plastic bags to pack
*ditty bag (for personal items in bear bag) .
sleeping bag in stuff sack lined with plastic bag .
sleep clothes–worn only in sleeping bag
*foam sleeping pad (closed cell or Therma-Rest) .
Layer A (Hiking Clothes)
**Most of the following 9 items are listed in the crew equipment
*3 pairs lighter inner socks (polypro) .
section of the Philmont Guidebook, but your Expedition Leader
requests they be included in each camper’s personal equipment.
*sewing kit with heavy thread and needle (S) .
*small metal tent stakes (as req’d by tent + 3) .
personal first aid kit in ditty bag to include band aids,
Layer B (Cool Evening)
large bandages, sports tape, antibiotic ointment,
1 long sleeve shirt (wool or flannel) .
moleskin, bandanna, ace bandage, small supply
*1 long pants, cotton or nylon (not heavy jeans) .
*waterproof ground cloth, 5’6”x7’6”, 1 per tent (S) .
Layer C (Cold)
*insect repellent–non aerosol (BB, S) .
*1 sweater or jacket (wool or polar fleece) .
*1 glove liners or mittens (wool or polypro) .
NO RADIOS, CD/MP3 PLAYERS, VIDEO GAME DEVICES OR
(Cold, Wet, Windy)
HAMMOCKS. CELLULAR TELEPHONES ARE DISCOURAGED.
* Available at Philmont’s Tooth of Time Traders
(BB)–Packed together in plastic bag to be placed in bear bag at night
(A) – Easily accessible in pack or carried on person
Philmont Personal Equipment Advice & Recommendations
For most first time Philmont hikers, it is not unusual to spend $300 to $600 in equipment. The most often purchased items are boots,
sleeping bags, packs, and rain gear. This list of recommendations follows the same general sequence as the Personal Equipment
Checklist in the Philmont Guidebook. Scout Uniform
Your full and complete Official Scout Uniform ("Class A") for the Boy Scout crews, and Venturer uniform for
Venturing crews, is required for travel and several activities at Philmont Camping HQ. Light Weight
Always keep weight in mind for every item. Always. Smaller, lighter is best. Mark Everything
Put your name on everything, including, and especially, your eating bowl, cup, spoon, and water bottles. Backpack
Unless you come from a very unusual Scout troop, this will probably be the first time that you have ever carried personal
and crew gear, food for several days, and several quarts of water in a pack at one time. Packs that made it for years on troop campouts
simply don't have enough volume to handle what you and your crew will be carrying on the trail at Philmont. Many Philmont hikers
get a new pack before their trek. It is difficult to recommend a type of pack to bring to Philmont. Pack selection really boils down to
individual choice and the amount that you are willing to pay for the pack.
External frame packs
are the most common beginning pack and generally cost less than internal frame packs. They
allow you to strap on additional equipment giving you greater flexibility in what you can carry. External frame packs
usually come with lots of built in pockets that provide easy access for needed gear. They are also slightly cooler to
wear. An external frame pack for a Philmont trek should be a minimum
of 4200 cubic inches (69 liters).
Internal frame packs
are becoming more and more popular. They are basically bags that are built around a hi-tech
suspension system. They fit closer to your back and almost become a part of you while on the trail and consequently
are far more comfortable and easier to carry than an external frame pack. Since sleeping bags are carried inside of an
internal frame pack, minimum size for a Philmont trek should be no less than
4800 cubic inches (79 liters). 5000 to
5200 (82-85 liters) is better. Most experienced backpackers prefer an internal frame pack. Cost can be $200-$400 or
Whether external or internal frame, make sure that the pack is large enough to carry all your personal gear plus your share of crew
gear. When packed with all your personal gear, it should not be much over 1/2 to 2/3 full and should weigh not much over 30 to 35 lbs. You will need space to carry your share of provisions (up to 4 days worth of food), and crew gear (stoves, pots, fuel, dining fly, bear bag hanging ropes, and more).
There are additional things that you must do to ensure that your pack is ready to go. First, check to see that the pack is fitted
properly. The hip belt must fit snugly around the waist to allow the full weight of the pack to be carried on the hips while at the same time providing enough padding to protect the hips. The shoulder straps should be padded and fit the width of the shoulders. When viewed from the side, shoulder straps should be level (or a little upward) from the shoulders to the pack frame. Second, check the condition of the pack. Most have probably never rinsed the salt and sweat from their pack's suspension system. Dry rot of pack's stitching and fabric may already have started. Check the stitching at all stress points in the pack material. Check the grommets on the shoulder straps and hip belt to ensure that they have not pulled out of the pack material. Check the pack frame welds to ensure that they are not cracked. Make sure you bring along one or two replacement clevis pins and split-rings. JanSport packs require special nuts, bolts and wrenches that are not readily available at Philmont.
If absolutely necessary, you can rent an external frame pack at Philmont for a very reasonable cost (2008 cost was $18.00).
Backpack Attachment Straps
(for external frame pack) Get straps to attach sleeping bag, tent, sleeping pad, etc. Don't use bungie
cords or rope to tie. Straps should be 24-36” long and have nice easily cinchable buckles. Daypack
Good if backpack has detachable lid or other piece that can be worn independently as a small day pack for side hikes to
carry rain gear and water. Pack Cover
A pack cover that is designed to fit your pack is important. Trash bags are a bad substitute. Sea to Summit brand has an
excellent pack cover made of lightweight siliconised nylon that fits into its own very small stuff sack the size of a baseball and weighs
almost nothing. Remember that the cover must go over not only the pack, but anything attached to it (sleeping bag, tent, etc.). Get the
large 75-95 liter size. Tent
Philmont provides a 2-man A-frame tent for checkout at base camp. Called the Philmont Backpacker, it weighs 5 1/2 lbs., has a
5'6" x 7'6" rectangular footprint, 3 short poles, and requires 14 stakes (not free standing). If you have your own tent that you want to
take, please discuss it with your Expedition Leader. He will want to see it and discuss with you its appropriateness, size, weight,
previous usage, etc. Tent Stakes
Each crew member will need whatever tent stakes you and your tent partner need for your tent, plus 3 more (per person).
Use 6 to 7 in" length (not bigger), metal (not plastic). Must be sturdy. Ground is hard. Consider an aluminum alloy stake such as the
MSR Ground Hog, or better yet, one similar but with a round top to reduce risk of foot injury if stepped on. You need tent stakes for
use with your own tent and you must provide up to 3 additional ones to share for crew dining fly and for other needs. If you use a
Philmont tent, the number you need is 10 (1/2 of 14 plus 3). Sleeping Bag
Need good mummy type sleeping bag in 15-25 deg F temp range. It should weigh less than four pounds. A mummy
bag is lighter and warmer than other design types. At Philmont's higher elevations, the temperature gets into the thirties at night and
there always seems to be a stiff breeze blowing. Other than boots, the sleeping bag is the most important piece of equipment a
crewmember will bring to Philmont. Crewmembers need to know that the one and only place where they will always be warm and
dry is in their sleeping bags, inside their tents. Synthetic fill is often preferred over down. Down sleeping bags lose their insulating
capability when they get wet and require extra caution and care to avoid this situation. Even though most sleeping bags come with a
"water-proof" stuff sack, an additional plastic trash bag or waterproof bag should be placed in the stuff sack to provide a second layer
of protection. Compression Stuff Sack for Sleeping Bag
A "compression" stuff sack is great, but a regular, tight-fitting one is okay. Best is one
made of the newest hi-tech ultra-light fabric, made by Granite Gear, Sea to Summit, and others, available at local outfitters such as
Jesse brown and REI. If you have a down sleaping bag, you might consider a dry-sack compression sack. They have additional
design features that allow air to be pushed out, but prevent water from entering. You almost need to have your sleeping bag to test to
see which size stuff sack is best. A Medium size Granite Gear for a synthetic sleeping bag, and a Small size for a down sleeping bag is
a good guess. The stuff sack that typically comes with the sleeping bag is probably not a compression sack. The compression sack has
straps that allow you to cinch down the bag after it is stuffed and make the whole thing smaller to go in the backpack. Sleeping Pad
An inexpensive closed cell pad is a must for all crewmembers. Not only does it provide a comfortable sleep even on
those not-so-level places; it also prevents heat loss downward and provides a barrier against moisture should your tent leak in a heavy
rain. For economy and a good value, Cascade Design produces the Z-Rest, an excellent pad that is very comfortable, is less bulky
than traditional pads, and can even be used for a camp seat. A Therm-A-Rest sleeping pad is highly recommended for those who don't
mind a little extra expense. Therm-A-Rest pads come in different thicknesses and the ProLite3-Short is the lightest and quite adequate
for summertime and Philmont use. It is 3/4 length and slim thickness and is recommended because of its smaller pack size and weight
with little sacrifice in comfort. But again, personal preference is a factor. Hiking Boots
(See NOLS Fitting Instructions on separate page.) Some outfitting stores may recommend leather hiking boots for
Philmont because of the support they provide when compared to hi-tech synthetic boots. However, leather boots cost more and are
harder to break in. Spending $150 to $225 on leather boots just does not make sense when a synthetic pair of boots costing $50 to
$100 will work just as well. Outfitting stores may say that synthetic boots will fall apart due to the ruggedness of Philmont's trails.
Not so. In any case, if new boots are needed, plan on purchasing them in March. This will provide enough time to break in the boots
while reducing the possibility of them being outgrown by Philmont. Whatever you buy, make sure that they have been waterproofed
several times before you head to Philmont. Some hikers have replaced their boot's insole with a more expensive gel type insole. If
you choose to do this, be sure to try out the new insoles during your shakedown hikes. Sometimes a new insole raises the heel out of
the boot’s heel cup and causes a blister or may reduce the overall boot size. Remember, boots that fit too snug is one of the biggest
mistakes. Lightweight In-Camp Shoes
Hikers also need to pack an in-camp shoe that can be worn once you get into camp and can get your
boots off. A set of moccasins or running shoes makes an excellent in-camp shoe. Most Scout use sneakers they already own. Tevas
and other sandals are not permitted for many Philmont activities. Philmont requires the wear of a closed toe shoe or boot when
cooking, branding, rock climbing, horseback riding, spar pole climbing and your conservation project, so leave your Tevas and Crocs
at home. Getting into in-camp shoes gives your feet a rest and gives you an opportunity to sun dry your boots. Whatever type of in-
camp shoe you choose should have a low impact sole that keeps it from further damaging the ground of your already over camped
camp site. In-camp shoes should be easy to get on and off for those late night visits to the latrine. And finally, they should be
comfortable and sturdy enough for you to hike in to the next camp site, if you are having severe boot problems. Socks
Always, ALWAYS, hike in good socks WITH sock liners! Good socks make more difference in comfort for less difference in
price than any other piece of backpacking gear. They protect your feet from your boots and vice versa. They should hug your feet
while slipping smoothly across the lining of the boot reducing friction. Liner socks reduce it still more by providing yet another
interface. The preferred inner layer is a synthetic (polypropylene or CoolMax) sock liner. The liner wicks the moisture away from the
foot to the outer sock. When the foot is dry, there is a decreased chance of a getting a blister. Heavy wool socks as outer layers are
great. However, some do not like the feel of wool socks and they take a long time to dry out once they get wet. SmartWool or other
Merino wool socks contain wool, but are very soft and dry much quicker than the all-wool ragg socks. For a synthetic sock, consider
a Thorlo Hiking sock that does it not itch and dries quickly because it contains no wool. For the liners, SmartWool, CoolMax, polypro
are all good. NOLS reports that their students have good luck with a medium weight liner under a thick wool or polyester sock, but
many youth use light weight liners. Don't go with silk-weight. Get something at least reasonably substantial. Like most backpacking
equipment, much of it really comes down to a matter of personal choice. Whatever type you use, pack three pairs
of outer socks and three pairs
of sock liners. It is important to think of your socks and boots as parts of a system
to get you over the ground. You
should wear your chosen socks when trying on boots. Also, don’t overlook the fact that you can use your socks to micro-adjust the fit.
If you have feet of different sizes or volumes, consider combining socks with different thicknesses to help accommodate the
difference. Make sure that you check the condition of your socks before you head for Philmont. Too often, crewmembers will buy
new boots and neglect to buy new socks. Socks do wear out! If the socks' padding capability is worn down, get new ones. Be sure
boots fit nicely over your heavy sock combination. Boots too snug is one of the biggest mistakes. Stuff Bags and Ditty Bags
These are a really good to have, in different colors, especially if using an internal frame pack. They are
great for keeping things, both large and small, organized inside your pack. They can provide reasonable (but not perfect) waterproof
protection. They are more durable than simply using ziplock bags, though using them in combination with ziplocks can provide
perfect waterproof protection. Most experienced campers suggest taking along several spare gallon, quart, and pint size ziplocks. (Use
freezer ziplocks - they are more durable.)
Sea to Summit and OR (Outdoor Research) make very good stuff sacks and ditty bags with hi-tech ultra-light and strong siliconised nylon or gossamer fabrics. REI, Jesse Brown, and Great Outdoor Provision Co carry these and/or other similar brands. A size of 15” tall by 7” diameter is good. They can be used to put socks in one, t-shirts & shorts in another, fleece shirt and long pants in another, rain gear in another, etc. Use different colors so you can tell apart w/o opening. You can also put some things in a gallon ziplock before putting in the stuff bag for the most protection, but this is not always necessary except maybe for socks and special items that MUST be kept completely dry. Smaller ditty bags, 8” tall by 3” diam, are good to collect small loose things like your whistle, tooth brush, tooth paste, sewing kit, safety pins, flashlight, comb, medicine, personal first aid items like band aids, antibiotic ointment, moleskin, etc. If anything must really be waterproof, like medicine or band aids, etc, put these items in pint ziplocks before putting in the ditty bag. Very small waterproof plastic bottles (made by Nalgene) for medicine and pills, like Tylenol, Aleve, Benadryl, and Imodium are good.
It’s good to have some cheaper, lighter weight, off brand, stuff bags for a couple of other things - (1) to hold your in-camp shoes (keeps possibly dirty soles from touching other things in pack), (2) to hold your bowl, cup, and spoon which are inside a ziplock, and (3) a larger and empty stuff sack to throw in all your "smellables" that must be collected each evening to go into a bear bag - try to have an odd color, like purple or orange or yellow, so you can ID yours quickly in the morning when it gets dumped out on the ground with all the others.
A Word About Cotton
Cotton garments have no place on Philmont’s trails. Although cotton is an inexpensive, lightweight and
breathable fabric, it is also very absorbent and slow to dry. When wet, cotton loses its insulating capabilities, and it absorbs a
significant amount of moisture and holds it next to the body. This adds weight to the garment and causes cooling through evaporation.
At Philmont, rain is typically accompanied by a rapid drop in temperature where wet cotton garments create a hypothermia risk.
CoolMax and other 100% polyester hi-tech performance fabrics are great. Wicks moisture from skin, dries in no time when
wet. Philmont Trading Post (Tooth of Time Traders) sells some nice logo polyester shirts for under $20. (See
www.toothoftimetraders.com or phone 575-376-1145.) CoolMax, Patagonia Capilene (or equiv) shirts are available lots of places -
REI, Jesse Brown, Campmor. Don't worry about style. Will probably want to burn shirt(s) worn on the trail when it's over. And don't
bring any shirt with inappropriate themes (tobacco, sex, drugs, violence, etc.) Hiking Shorts
2 or 3 prs. Again, don't worry about style. Best is basic quick-dry and light weight, running shorts, material like
supplex. Built-in underwear is good. Cotton boxers can be problems for many and chaffing can be a problem - though usually for
heavier guys. Cotton is a bad outdoor fabric for most parts of the body. Long Sleeve Shirt
Need 1 long sleeve shirt for cool evenings - or rare insect problems in camp. A 200-weight fleece shirt is good. A
cotton sweatshirt is NOT good. A fleece shirt with a Goretex rain jacket is the most you should ever need for warmth. Long Pants
Need 1 pr long pants. No cotton. No jeans. Get light weight. Must have long pants for a few specific activities, and good
for warmth in evening. Long Underwear
Suggest one set (top & bot) light wt long underwear. Patagonia Caplinene (or other polypro synthetic) light or
medium weight is fine. May not actually ever need. It's expensive. REI and Jesse Brown carry them. Stocking Cap
Strongly suggest 1 stocking cap, wool or fleece. May not ever need. Full Brim Hat
Should have 1 full-brim hat for sun & rain protection. The "OR Seattle Sombrero" model (is Goretex) is very popular,
but there are others. A main undesirable attribute is a black underside liner - probably makes it feel hotter. Gloves
1 pr light weight gloves (or glove liners) strongly suggested, but may never need.
It is really difficult to give advice to crewmembers on rain gear other than it is a must and it should be good quality. You
should note that the ONLY rain gear listed on Philmont's personal equipment list is a rain suit and NOT a poncho. A Gore-Tex, or
water-proof and breathable equivalent, rain suit be recommended. Gore-Tex allows perspiration to escape while keeping rain out.
However, a Gore-Tex rain suit typically costs $150 to $300 and can be heavier than coated nylon. A lightweight coated nylon rain
suit works almost as well and costs under $60. Do not purchase the less expensive, but much heavier PVC rain suit. The beauty of a
rain suit is that the jacket can also be used to keep warm, when layered with a wool or fleece sweater. Philmont Rangers tell you that
an inexpensive rain suit is far superior to the most expensive poncho. Before you buy any type of rain gear, make sure that it states
"waterproof" and not "water resistant." Water resistant fabric may handle a light dew, but will become water logged and soak the
wearer after only a few minutes of an afternoon Philmont rain. Prior to going to Philmont, you should test your rain gear. Your
neighbors might get a chuckle, but wear a light colored t-shirt under your rain gear and get sprinkled with the water hose for about 10
minutes. This will provide a good test to determine whether your raingear needs to have a treatment such as Nikwax’s TX-10 Direct
applied. Some have been known to stand in the shower at home to check out raingear! Eating Kit
For eating, only need a bowl-type plate, a cup, and spoon (all plastic - should be sturdy). The plate should not be of such
large diameter that it won’t fit into the cooking pot for cleaning and dipping into boiling water for sterilization - a bowl-type plate is
the best. Cup should have measuring marks on it. Best if it actually holds more than 1 cup. A great substitute for a cup is a 16-oz
wide mouth Nalgene bottle, the BPA-free Eastman Tritan copolyester type. You can mix hot chocolate in it by putting on the cap and
shaking, and not have to use your spoon to stir. A plastic spoon is necessary for eating and must be strong and sturdy and unbreakable
for continued use. Some people like to use a spork, but this is not necessary. Water Containers
Dehydration is the most common ailment that disrupts or prematurely ends a hiker's trek, and must be guarded
against with utmost seriousness. Each crewmember must have water bottles for a minimum of 4 quarts. More Scouts are using
hydration systems (Camelback, Platypus) on the trail. Although these systems offer the convenience of being able to take a drink
through a tube without having to take off your pack, many advisors are not big fans of them for several reasons. When you drink from
one of these systems, it is really hard to tell if a crewmember is really drinking enough. Additionally, hydration systems can build up
mildew in their drinking tubes if they are not properly cleaned. Sometimes they tend to leak. Taking a water break, whether it is a
short “packs on” break or a longer “packs off” break, and taking a good slug of water is often the best procedure. During the break,
you can quickly assess by looking at the level in the water bottle to see how much water is being consumed. In addition, most packs
have external pockets that provide easy access to a water bottle if you need a drink while you are walking. Nalgene, the BPA-free
Eastman Tritan copolyester type, wide mouth quart-size water bottles are highly recommended. They come in several different colors.
Many prefer three that are 1 qt size and two that are 1 pt size to give more flexibility. The wide mouth design works best for scooping
water and for adding drink mix. Do not attach Nalgene water bottles to your pack by clipping onto the strap of the lid. Weight and
motion while hiking will cause the strap to break in a day or two. Pocket Knife
SMALL (key chain size) pocket knife - WITH SCISSORS - important. Flashlight
Small - NEVER any bigger that a mini-mag (2 AA batteries) size. The new LED bulb models are great. Petzl, Priceton
Tec, and other, make good LED bulb headlamp styles, very bright, very small and light, batteries last a LONG time. Compass
Must have. Bandannas
Should have 2. Towel for Trail
Small hand size is plenty big enough for trail use. (Take bigger one for touring and base camp but leave behind while
on trail.) A "Pack Towel” is highly recommended. They are small and hold LOTS of water - like a chamois, only soft & fuzzy. Sunscreen
Never take the whole container. Get a few small, 1 or 2 oz, water-tight screw top bottle containers for stuff like this (and
medicine). Nalgene makes them. Camera & Film
Optional. Digital pictures when processing are preferred for easier sharing. Watch
VERY IMPORTANT. One with alarm is great. One with altimeter is also very nice. Personal First Aid Kit
Each Scout must have his own. Should contain band aids, large bandages, sports tape, antibiotic ointment,
moleskin, bandanna, ace bandage, a small supply of duct tape, and medications. Put all in one small ditty bag. Crazy Creek Seat
Optional, but very desirable. Can be folded and easily strapped to pack.
NATIONAL OUTDOOR LEADERSHIP SCHOOL (NOLS)
Your footwear is arguable the most important part of your gear, especially if you are planning to hike long days or climb difficult peaks. Poorly fitted boots will leave your feet an ugly mess of blisters. It is best to shop in the afternoon since feet tend to swell during the day. Always fit your larger foot. The key to proper fit is to determine the correct length. A boot which is too small (short) will cause more problems than one which is too large.
In fitting your boots, bring along the type of socks you plan to use in the mountains. At NOLS we have had the most luck with boots worn and fitted with a medium-weight liner sock next to your foot and a thick wool or polyester sock on the outside. The two pairs of socks pad the foot, reduce friction, and wick moisture away from your foot. Therefore, you may have to wear boots in a size or two larger than your street shoes. A good rule of thumb is to put the boots on with no socks, push your toe to where it is touching the front, and still have a finger’s width of space between your heel and the back of the boot. Fit any tighter, and your feet will be squeezed and uncomfortable, not to mention cold. Fit any looser, and you will not have the “feel” for the trail that you need to cross bolder fields and slippery terrain. Spend time walking around the store and try different brands. Every brand has its own individual fit and shape because each company uses different foot models around which to design their boot. Some people have “high volume” feet and require a wider, deeper boot. You may find a size ten in one brand fits well in the length but is too tight on your instep. Try on another brand. Before you go out on your trip, break in your boots with day hikes or even wear them to work. Try to log at least 20 miles on your new boots before you take them out on your extended trip so you can make sure they fit you well. * The National Outdoor Leadership School’s Wilderness Guide
The Classic Handbook, Revised and Updated 1999 by
Published by Simon & Schuster Chapter 3, pages 67-70 NOLS is “the Harvard of the wilderness schools”
Notes & Acknowledgments
Superior Outdoor Outfitting Retailers
, Carolina Place Mall, Northlake Mall, and on the Internet at www.rei.com. Jesse Brown Outdoors
, Sharon Shopping Center (across from SouthPark) They give a 10% Scout discount with Scout ID card. Great Outdoor Provision Company
, Park Road Shopping Center. They give a 10% discount with Scout ID card for members of
their Mule Team Club. Campmor
, on the Internet at www.campmor.com. Philmont Trading Post
(Tooth of Time Traders), order online at www.toothoftimetraders.com or by phone at 575-376-1145.
A High Adventure backpacking trek can be physically demanding. Even if you are able to pass a physical
exam with flying colors, you will need to get in shape for steep, rocky trails with 1,000-foot climbs being typical, and carrying a 35 to
50 lb. pack at elevations where there is 20 to 35 percent less oxygen. A program of regular aerobic exercise is important. Jogging,
hiking uphill or long flights of stairs, and hiking with a full pack are excellent preparation. Training hikes that will prep you for boots
and feet are good. Actual overnight backpacking with a loaded pack is good whenever possible. Any opportunity to use your clothing
& equipment is helpful, as a lot of it may be new and you're trying it out. It's good to see in the field what you like, what works, how
it works, etc. Mental Preparation
A positive mental attitude, teamwork, and maturity are of paramount importance. The physical and mental
stresses of a High Adventure trek can be challenging. Maintaining a positive attitude and displaying good teamwork is a MUST, will
go a long way to overcoming all of these challenges, and will allow you and everyone else to stay safe and have fun. Acknowledgments
1. Philmont Advisor's Guide
, by Cooper Wright, National Capital Area Council , Wally Feurtado and Mimi Hatch, Baltimore Area
Council. This guide is available for $10 using the order form at the following link on the Baltimore Area Council's Philmont Contingent Website: http://www.bacphilmont.org/pag.html. Coop, Wally, and Mimi are Scouters with multiple Philmont trek experience who, with input from many other experienced sources, have created this well written guide as a supplement to official Philmont publications. Questions may be directed to Mimi by email at email@example.com. Some of the recommendations from this guide have been included in this document in the sections about boots & footwear, sleeping bags, backpacks, rain gear, and water containers.
2. Philmont Guidebook to Adventure
Some information has been taken from this pocket-sized booklet made available to all Philmont Expedition participants in March.
3. The National Outdoor Leadership School’s Wilderness Guide
The NOLS boot fitting instructions comes from chapter 3 of this book. NOLS, headquartered in Lander, Wyoming, is the acknowledged leader in providing challenging outdoor leadership experiences from bases around the world that last from a few weeks to several months. It is “the Harvard of the wilderness schools.”
4. Expedition Leader and experienced backpacker Michael Goodman
Content has been reviewed, edited, and enhanced by Michael Goodman, who has extensive backpacking experience in California and the West and in the eastern Appalachian mountains. He is the council contingent's Philmont Expedition Leader for the coming year.
Most of the content of this High Adventure Camping Personal Equipment Advice & Recommendations document comes from the experiences of Julian Love. He has planned and led ten Philmont Expeditions since 1992, including three for the council, six for his troop, and one for his Venturing Crew. He has planned and led many other successful Scout High Adventure trips since 1984.
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